Howick Heel & Sole Bar - in the heart of Howick

Shoe Repairs - Key Cutting - Engraving - Shoe Care - Key Accessories - Bag Repairs



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Tight and Loose Fitting Shoes
If shoes are uncomfortable, it is suggested that the shoes are placed on the stretching machine to relieve the tension in tight areas. Typically, we can stretch a shoe by approximately ½ size. It is also important to note that stretching places high stress on shoes and there is always the risk of the shoe “blowing out”. In situations where there is a bunion or corn, that particular area on the shoe can be stretched using a ring and ball stretcher. In extreme cases the area causing major concern may need to be removed. If your shoes are too loose we offer the following fitting aids: 

  • Solettes - thin pieces of foam designed to go over the sock lining in the forepart of the shoe. i.e.: If a 7 ½ is too loose and a 7 is too tight, you can add the solette to make it fit like a 7 ¼.
  •  Heel Cushions - are placed on the sock lining to add comfort under the strike zone of the heel.
  • Insoles - come in a variety of styles and materials. Flat insoles made of foam or leather add cushioning to the shoe and make loose-fitting shoes tighter. Contour insoles have an arch support and heel built in. They give extra support and hold the foot firmly in place so your foot doesn't slide inside the shoe.
  • Heel Grips - are applied to the back of the shoe and help prevent the heel from sliding in and out of the shoe. They also push the foot forward in the shoe. Top

Caring for Suede and Nubuck
The key to keeping suede and nubuck in tip top shape is preventative maintenance. Before you wear the shoes, protect them with a water and stain repellent designed specifically for suede and nubuck. As soon as you notice water isn't beading up, spray them again. If you get a stain on suede or nubuck, try to remove it immediately.

Generally when a customer is asked as to whether they know the difference between suede and nubuck, the answer is “no”. Although it may not seem overly important, it can mean the difference between rejuvenating and ruining a good pair of shoes. Suede is the underside of the leather. It is strong and fibrous and can be cleaned with a wire suede brush. Nubuck however is the upper side of the leather that has been lightly ground back to produce a soft velvety texture and appearance. Nubuck needs to be cleaned more carefully to avoid permanently damaging the surface. In this instance it is recommended that a crepe brush be used, which will gently clean out any dirt, and restore the nap. The same shampoos and colour restorers can be used on both suede and nubuck. It is important to waterproof them from the very beginning, as water and other substances can leave unsightly stains. 

Normal dirt and slight mud soiling is best removed with a stiff bristled, or combination bristle/brass wire brush specially made for the purpose. If allowed to become very muddy, it is difficult to restore the appearance of suede. The best treatment is to gently scrape off as much as possible with a blunt knife and then use a suede shampoo to create a lather and lift the dirt. Allow to dry and then brush up with a suede brush. This treatment is also recommended on suede that is soiled with oil or grease stains.
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Caring for Patent Leather
Patent leather is leather that has been given a polyurethane coating, hence the bright, shiny appearance. It is best to use products designed specifically to clean patent leather, such as the Patent cleaners by Tana and Waproo. Products such as Tana Zanolin, (which is a runny cream-like cleaner), is a good all-rounder for patents, general leathers, plastics and vinyls. It can't be used however, on metallic bags and shoes as it may damage the delicate coating on the leather.
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Caring for Metallic Coated Leather
Metallic shoes are made from leather that is coated in a thin foil skin; in pewter, bronze, silver or gold. Metallic surfaces can be difficult to care for, and the trick is knowing which products to actually use, and it is important to protect the surface before it becomes damaged. This is done with a Metallic Renovating Polish, which will help to maintain gloss, colour and provide a waterproofed surface able to repel grime. Although some authorities advise the use of aerosol sprays to waterproof metallic shoes, the safest course to take is to avoid using any aerosol product. Once the metallic surface has been damaged, it has to be “replaced” and this is easily done with a quality paint on Shoe Colour. The same rule of care then applies once the surface has been renewed, and that is to only use a metallic renovating polish.
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Caring for Exotic Leathers
Exotic leathers can be sensitive and difficult to maintain. Use a mild cleaner and conditioner specifically formulated for exotic leathers on these. Using products for smooth leather on snakeskin, for example may leave a residue that will build up around the base of the scales and cause them to crack or fall off. It is important to use products that will condition without leaving a
residue. Top

Use of Renovating Polishes
Renovating Polish is available in a wide variety of colours. It is highly pigmented to cover scuffs and helps to replace the natural oils of full grain leather to keep it in good condition. Due to the high pigment, it is important to match the correct shade of polish, as continued use will change the colour of the shoes if the wrong one is used. Make sure the shoes are dry and free from dirt before applying the polish. Never use polish to remove the dirt as the gritty particles may damage the leather. If shoes need drying, put them in a warm place stuffed with newspaper to absorb moisture. Never put them near a fire or on hot pipes, as the heat will cause the glue to “activate” and let go. Items such as “Parade Gloss” and “Military Shine” are extremely high in pigment and will actually dye the leather. These are ideal for “
spit polishing” military and police boots. Top

Caring for Sports Shoes
If you have shoes with fabric or suede on the uppers, the key is to protect them before they get dirty. Spray them with a water and stain repellent when they are new, and as soon as you notice the water isn't beading up anymore, spray them again. Leather uppers are much easier to clean. Sneaker shampoos with scrubbing applications remove stains and dirt from the leather surface. If the shoes become scuffed, shoe-whitening products are available to restore the original colour. You can also use a white leather spray paint that will give a very good finish. Several deodorizing products are available including insoles, powders and
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Caring for Work Boots
It is important to consider the benefits of purchasing good quality leather boots, which will provide comfort and protect feet from injury. Since most boots these days are constructed with cardboard insoles, the insides soon disintegrate from constant daily sweat and body salts. It is vital for the life of the boots, and the health of the feet, that the boots be allowed to fully dry out. It is much more comfortable to put on a “fresh” pair of boots each day, instead of the same, damp, dank, smelly ones day in and day out.

Instead of being worried about not having shiny boots, it is more important to keep the leather well fed, with a good quality moisture-preserving dressing. “Dubbin” is an excellent dressing for waterproofing and putting natural oils back into the leather. It softens and preserves the leather giving a dull finish. Other waterproofing dressings containing beeswax, such as Waproo’s “Jay-el”, or “Boot Goo” also put natural oils back into leather and can be buffed to a shine if desired. The most effective and efficient way to use any of these products is to smear them sparingly onto the surface, leave overnight and buff back in the morning with a dry, clean cloth. With dubbin, it is advised to warm it before use to make the application much easier. This also allows the dubbin to penetrate the leather more easily.

A simple tip for putting on boots with elastic gussets, is to just turn the boot onto its side, place the foot in, and then turn the foot into the boot as the boot is pulled up with the front and back loops. Simple things to know, which can you save money over time.
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Colour Changing
If you can hold a paintbrush, then you can change the colour of a pair of shoes. It is not difficult, although care needs to be taken, and plenty of time allowed for. It is important to note that in this instance, the colour may only be dyed darker than the original colour, and the original colour will affect the final shade. Paint on products can be used for any colour, and just like normal paints, they can be mixed to create a wider range of shades. 

All surfaces to be colour changed, whether new or old, must be first correctly prepared. If not done, the new surface may not adhere properly and may flake off, therefore undoing all the hard work done in changing the colour in the first place. Surfaces need to be "stripped" of old polishes, cleaners, and grime. Once the surface is prepared it will have a slightly dulled look. Methylated spirits is as good a product as any to do this job, but it may take an awful lot of work. "Strippers" and "Preparers" are more powerful and much quicker, but care needs to be taken in their use with good ventilation. The general rule is "strippers" for leather and "preparers" for vinyls. Always wear disposable gloves to protect the hands from chemical contact. A small, inexpensive artist's brush will give a more professional finish by minimizing brush strokes. When using sprays, always cover the areas that you want to avoid re-colouring using good quality masking tape. It is important to test for good adherence in an inconspicuous area of the shoe, especially so with sprays because they don't seem to adhere well to some vinyls and plastics. If you are still not confident in approaching the job of colour-changing yourself, we can arrange for a professional to complete the task for you.
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Shop 1 BNZ Arcade 19 Moore St. Howick 534 4858
mon-fri 8:15am - 5:15pm sat 9:15am - 12:30pm
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